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By Matt Hamblin
#14012
Has anyone on here attempted using wood veneer on/for trim pieces?
I did searching online and tried a few samples before the final part was made on this job i did several months ago. My test parts came out good but after about a month in the summer heat the part started to buckle on the customer. I assume it is a difference in expansion between wood and abs plastic.

I needed the piece to be about 1/8" thick so that is why i went with abs and veneer as i couldn't find anything that thin locally.

I thought about making a sheet metal piece then veneer but was worried about the same issue happening or it just coming apart. Found some info online and sounds like it should have worked with the abs and veneer and i know they veneer from the factory on a lot if car parts.

Just looking for tips or advise if anyone has had success with this so i can avoid comebacks. Thanks!
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By John
#14015
Never tried this at all. I would guess your correct on the differences in expansion between the two materials. Would it be possible to use solid wood?

Im not sure the the wood you see in mass produced cars is a real wood veneer....
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By Matt Hamblin
#14017
Best i can tell is new cars for sure is fake. Older higher line cars actually have real wood veneer. Which is why i am shaking my head that i can't figure it out lol.

I did find some 1/16" crafting boards that are like 8x10 or something like that. Thought about gluing a couple together cutting my holes and then staining it that way. I guess im just trying to figure out another way of doing things to elevate my work and quality.
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By Matt Hamblin
#14019
Main issue would be a dash panel or door panel inserts that is woodgrain. I wouldn't know a good way to duplicate that currently. I like new challenges and to do things that others don't always do. But being self taught and still new to the trimming game i still have a lot to learn.
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By Ron Henningsen
#14026
Not trying to steal this thread but when you see a dash wood grained it was done by an ink process using a roller with a wood grain pattern on the roller, it was hand brushed on to simulate real wood or it was done by a hydrographics film dipping process. All three require a learning curve just like upholstery. As far as using adhesive to hold on veneer construction adhesive P700 or P800 handles the temp changes and extremes and remains somewhat able to not be affected by the temp changes. This is in caulking tubes at home improvement stores. The issue is that it's thick and is difficult to spread under thin veneer.
I do hand brush wood graining and hydrodipping for my own projects so I can speak to those processes.
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By Matt Hamblin
#14045
@Ron Henningsen
I have hydrodipped before. I just don't have the space for it anymore. I plan on adding that as another feature to my business once I can get into a larger shop. I think for now i will attempt a thin piece of wood and stain it to match the interior. If not I can always wrap it in vinyl later on. There are ways of doing things differently, so I always try to add to the proverbial tool belt. Always learning and trying to grow and keep the wheels turning.
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