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[AndrewRB1]

Hi all,

I'm Andrew, from Portsmouth UK. I've been into modifying cars to show standard for a good few years now and am a firm believer in learning new skills and doing it yourself as much as possible, which brings me here, as I'm now at the point where I want to retrim the whole interior in my current car and will certainly need guidance from those who have experience!

I'm very lucky as my job is at the Rolls Royce factory, and there is a wealth of knowledge available in the leather shop there and people I can ask or watch how they do things but for now I need to take the small baby steps and do research at home, and this looks like a great place to start.

I've just invested in an old and simple industrial sewing machine and am trying to get my head around super basic stuff that I hadn't even considered would be confusing (needle and thread size / type for a start!). I've been dabbling with loose renders for colour schemes and still haven't made any decisions but leather everywhere is the plan.

I've got some old head rests and other bits off ebay which I'll pick apart and practice re-stitching and then re-trim when the sewing is consistent, and lots of other fabric and vinyl offcuts to play with inbetween.

Anyway here is the motor, a JDM Honda Odyssey, the sewing machine, a boot build that I did on my previous car, this was all hand made (including hand stitching which was awful looking back!), and what the current interior looks like.

Thanks,

Andrew

[B1N9S]

Hi Andrew.

I'm Wayne. Another newb, to this sewing malarkey. I have just bought the same machine as you and also looking to start doing a few things on my cars. But, they're not show cars !! So, functional is fine for me.

That's nice looking car you've got and sounds like you're in the perfect place for advice in the RR factory !! Good luck with the projects mate.

I have just swapped the pedal over on my machine to the RHS, which seems to be a bit better for control (If you're right footed !) and I think I am going to buy one of those 'even feed' attachments and a servo motor when I get going.

I've also looked at the fulcrum point on the pedal and it's not ideal for controlling the damn thing, since you're pivoting your foot around the centre, which is weird to do. So I think I'm going to look at some DIYing to improve that, to make it more similar to a accelerator pedal type of arrangement. Anyway, I'm waffling.

Just thought I'd say hello

[AndrewRB1]

Hi Wayne, that's good, did you get a manual with yours? Mine didn't and it'd be handy to have. I didn't even think about switching the pedal side, I'll see how I get on and change it if it's not comfortable. I haven't been able to have a play with it yet as I put my back out of shape carrying it into the house (my own fault for trying to do it alone). What's the benefit of an even feed attachment?

[B1N9S]

You can find a pdf manual online.

The even feed attachment, is a crude, cheap walking foot. But, I'm no expert and I expect it's nothing like the real deal. But, I just can't afford £600 or 700+ for something, I might not use too often. The attachment os about £20

If, I get good at it and I can recoup the costs, I'll consider a proper walking foot machine.

[John]

Hi @AndrewRB1 Welcome to the forum! Happy to have you here!
Looks like a fun project. Cant wait to see how the new interior turns out.

[AndrewRB1]

Thank you John, the apprentice course has been very helpful so far. I'm not sure the machine I've bought is the right one for the job. It's difficult to control the speed and jumps from slow to too fast way too quickly. Guessing I need a servo motor? Any advice appreciated!

B1N9S / Wayne, how are you getting on with the even feed foot? Mine seems to pull to one side so I'm wondering if something like this could help keep it straight. If it's good, could you give me a link to the correct one for our machines?

[AndrewRB1]

So after doing a number of rectangles and curves I felt a little confident and had a go at doing a headrest I picked up cheap with some red / black vinyl and cream leather I got from work. It's really bad but it is a first attempt and I have learned a lot from the numerous mistakes made. Keeping the curves lined up with the right seam allowance is a challenge - it's all over the place on this!

[John]

Hey @AndrewRB1 That's a great first attempt. Just one tip. Make sure your seam allowance is all folded the same direction and that cover will look a lot better as is. Keep up the great work!!

[AndrewRB1]

Thanks John, there is so much wrong with it but that is one thing I didn't think about. I'm enjoying the process though.

This is the 2nd attempt, slightly better with my machine control, but more problems to overcome - like the thick leather and vinyl didn't move through the machine well at all, the stitches were supposed to be 4mm but are waaay shorter and inconsistent as you can see, one side is all bunched up and the other is ok - and the edges are trying to pull apart (parts too small at a guess), and the shape isn't even as you can see from the top view.

I think I need to make my own patterns for it as the originals are stretched and warped and don't give a solid template to work with.

[John]

@AndrewRB1 What machine are you using?

[AndrewRB1]

@AndrewRB1 What machine are you using?

A Brother DB2-B755, clutch motor, stock feed dog & presser foot.

[John]

OK yeah its possible your original patterns are stretched out and off. Make sure to just focus on getting the edge of your pattern to lay smooth when your cutting out your pieces. If you have a bubble in the middle thats ok. That area is stretched and if you flatten it you will make your piece larger.

Also in the future you want to consider upgrading to a walking foot machine. That will make life a lot easier.

[Pays0n-UK]

Hey @AndrewRB1 ... Just one tip. Make sure your seam allowance is all folded the same direction and that cover will look a lot better as is....

Do you recommend gluing and maybe trimming (little gussets or snips depending on the nature of the curve, inside or outside or whatever) the seams down to one side say before top stitching? I know “neoprene” leather glue would work but I am trying to stay away from it if I can and looking for other auto upholstery specific solutions that may be quicker and less messy and fume-y. On first reflection it seems “vinyl” is a bit less forgiving material than leather as it seems a bit less stretchable/compressible.

[John]

No I dont recommend trimming the seam allowance before top stitching. On curved sections I do recommend making relief cuts in the seam allowance when your sewing the base seam.
I always recommend using weldwood landau top contact cement. http://amzn.to/2nwDBO5