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[stealthmode93]

@Cody, thanks, i like the fiberglass to but needs updated to flow with the rest of the build I'm doing on the car. It has a clutch motor on it now and has a pretty small pulley on it already. Not sure if i can get a smaller one or just need to learn the machine better to control it. @IvanD I'm still working on that. I have the top tension almost all the way out and its still doing it. This was after i figured out how to adjust the bobbin tension. I have no manual with this machine. Not sure what else to do. I think it could also be because I'm using a #22 needle on the 92 thread. My new #19 needles haven't showed up yet.

[IvanD]

I am actually practicing same thing. Needle size definitely going to make difference. With 22/69 I had similar issues. Tension might be OK but hole is too big and it shows.

Picture from my excersize last night. #20 LR needle. Have 19 in R kind only, but I checked with both almost no difference. On my material LR makes better bortom stitch

I am using special feet with a guide

3AE34667-2317-4586-9388-BD786D1AF85B.jpeg (943.74 KiB) Viewed 12290 times

[stealthmode93]

I want a guide foot but haven't found one to fit my machine.

[stealthmode93]

Should i keep the stitch length the same for the seam and the top stitching? I like the longer top stitching.

[Cody]

I would got smaller stitches for your normal stitches and longer with the top stitches. Not so small you’re perforating your material. On my machine I sew with a 6 and top stitch with a 7 or 8. So not a huge different. But I’ve noticed if I pull the material with larger than a 6 it pulls the seams and looks off.

[stealthmode93]

@Cody cody, that's what i was noticing yesterday with larger stitches for the seam. My machine doesn't have any dial with numbers for the stitch size, only a bunch of lines on the reverse lever to set it to. I took a sharpie and marked the line that worked best for the seam stitch and the top stitch i used like 2 settings longer. I'm looking for a servo motor now so i can slow this thing down. I wish they made an edge guide foot for this machine but i haven't found anything that will fit.

[IvanD]

@stealthmode93 , I got my machine with servo motor already. I beleive standard "generic" servo comes with 75mm pulley. Thas was pretty fast still. It's not like servo motor will be super-controllable. Machine needs some torque to go through material, so even with servo you will see that when you press pedal it will buzz and then go through pretty fast once start moving. People who sew leather go with speed reducers (system with 2 more pulleys $150-200). I got this pulley from eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/YEQIN-Industri ... 2749.l2649

New shorter belt was needed. Machines use 3L belt types. 3l390 is 39 inch belt I had, 3L360 is what I needed for smaller pulley.

I'm just suggesting if you get servo motor - get this small pulley right away so you don't have to buy another belt.

[stealthmode93]

@John will this motor work on my adler ok?
https://www.ebay.com/i/151718670672?rt= ... 1718670672

[stealthmode93]

@IvanD i still need to put a smaller pulley on the servo motor? I thought that was the point of the servo motor to control the speed electronically.

[IvanD]

@stealthmode93 Yes, I thought so too. Just think about it. Those servo motors better because of no noise, etc. You do control speed electronically but this is TOP speed that you control. It does not change "sensitivity" of pedal if thats correct term. Motor is 550W so it doesn't matter what top speed is, it needs to overcome initial tension to start spinning. That requires torque. What I experienced (and I'm totally new to it as well) - when I push pedal it wan'ts to go but once it hit's material it may stall. You want to push harder and then machine starts moving and it's too fast. You can push pedal and help with a wheel by hand but then you don't have that "extra hand". And I found that I need machine to be slow those first stitches. By changing ratio you give machine more torque and it can be started slower. Hopefully it makes sense. Btw, my motor looks 100% as the one you linked. I beleive there is different clones of the same thing.

One more thing - this motor got brake installed. I removed mine, otherwise you fighting it if you want to operate machine by hand.

Also, even with this smaller pulley I have hard time controlling needle position. That's OK, I can finish and start by hand if needed, but just saying that without further reduction I cannot stop needle UP or needle DOWN if I want to. Maybe it's my skill, but like I said - people who do intricate sewing installing reducers.

[stealthmode93]

I was looking at this video. Looks like it makes it nice and slow.

[IvanD]

What is does at 3:23 is not slow.
Around 5:00 here is slowish, but the guy changed top pulley as well. Mine is a bit faster.


Even slower (9:20) but I bet this one have no problem penetrating any material with full speed control:

[stealthmode93]

Can you post a video of how slow yours is now? I don't want to get into adding the extra pulleys in like that second video. Would be nice to just consistently slow down the clutch motor that's on it. But if swapping to a servo will work better to learn on than i have no problem doing so. This project needs to be completed by the spring so my car is ready for show season. Don't want to waste a ton of time trying to master the speed of this clutch motor if something else will work better.

[IvanD]

I know that there is a lot of upholsery sewn without any reducers on clutch motors, so it's just us beginners learning. I don't have video fo mine, but it is something like on first video I posted where guy replaced top pulley as well. Maybe little bit faster. So, it's slower than what you posted but faster than what other guys did with 2 pulles

You can slow down your clutch motor same way, here is a guy doing that:

Servo nice because it doesn't have to be spinning and making noise all the time. It's smaller and lighter. I don't think there is much difference in pedal feel. People slowing down machines either it's clutch or servo. Servo is just easier to control overall from what I read. I haven't tried clutch motor myself so can't tell.

[stealthmode93]

I actually did that to mine yesterday and didnt notice much difference. I took it back off.

[stealthmode93]

Actually this is what i did.

[IvanD]

This should help with feathering pedal, you don't have to be that "precise" with footwork.
I think what you experience is that even with this mod you don't get any movement and then machine "jumps". This is torque issue I was talking about.

[stealthmode93]

Yea its like you push the pedal and when you start hearing the clutch grab it takes off and sews like a speed demon. I managed to feather it a bit and get it slower yesterday. Ill just keep practicing.

[stealthmode93]

I looked at the pulley on my motor. It's already a small one. Also my 210 serifil thread came in so i had to try it even though i only have #22 needles right now. Its gonna look awesome on black suede with more practice .

[John]

Hey @stealthmode93, Great to see your getting some good practice!! Yes, any of those servo motors will work on your machine. You just have to mount it to the table and set the belt tension. It pretty easy. A servo motor will be the best way to slow your machine down.

I couldnt find a manual for your machine but the Paff 141 is very similar. Here is a manual for that.

141.pdf

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@IvanD I wouldnt recomend using a speed reducer like in that video. It will make you machine too slow and then when you actually want to sew fast it will make you crazy